Tuesday, September 20, 2016

More hardware, Systems and Various work


Busy with may jobs now. It is not just woodworking anymore but jumping from mechanical to electrical to plumbing to hardware and even more woodworking. Many hours spent at the workbench researching specs, figuring things out and on the phone ordering so that various items arrive or are made in time for work to progress without delay. A lot of jobs are 90% done but waiting for some last item or me to get to it.


 Soldered some 2" copper pipe into the through deck outlet for the the bilge pump. Made the strap clamp from bronze.


Bilge pump outlet installed and tucked under the taffrail. Fits perfectly between the knee and the boomkin.


Tucked out of sight behind the bulkhead aft of the galley stove is the bilge pump handle  for the Edson Bronze 30GPM pump in some black locust brackets.


Needed a clam shell vent but could only find one in stainless steel. Made a male-female mould by carving the shape in a piece of hardwood and making the mating piece with thickened epoxy. Squeezing a piece of copper between them in a large metal vise and then some trimming made a perfectly serviceable vent cover.


Tank vent copper tubing passing through the boom gallows base. A series of 1/8" holes are drilled in the gallows tubing a couple of inches below the top of the vent tube as seen in the picture below.




Bronze water deckfill set flush to the deck.


The RC Plath windlass was drilled for 3/8" bolts but I wanted to install with 1/2" bolts. I filed the holes bigger but favouring the inside so to leave the maximum amount of metal around the outer part of the base.


There is a bronze deck plate that is bedding to the deck and the 1/2" carriage bolts come through the deck as four mounting studs for the windlass. That way it is easily removable for greasing and maintenance.



The quarter inch thick bronze backing plate with copper chain pipes. I can clamp 2" bilge hose to the copper pipe to direct the chain and keep splash to a minimum.



My patterns and returned castings from Achinback Foundry. Pintle and Gungeons, misc backing plates, dodger hardware, dinghy chock cleats, taff rail block pad eyes.


Drilling the 6" Herreshoff cleats. I needed cleats for the dinghy chocks but had trouble finding some so instead had some cast from a old cleat I had servicing as a door handle to the workshop


Dinghy chocks installed and also serving to tie the lanyard for the backup oil nav lamps. Cold bent some 1/8" bronze for the oil lamp retainers.


Davey oil lamp in place. They are bright and effective.


Cockpit drains installed.


Cockpit drain though hull with a rubber flapper attached.


Schatz Royal clock and barometer. I like the clock chimes.



Main Blue Seas 10 position  Distribution panel and Victron battery monitor. The bronze switch plate on the side of the panel box controls the two lights here in the port quarter storage area. One on the side of the cockpit and one under the cockpit floor in the equipment area. I positioned the panel here right around the corner as you come under the cockpit so it  is has easy access, is out of sight and well protected.


The Italian lights that are used on bulkheads and deckhead (Davey lamps on cabin roof) came as a project like I need another thing to do. Had to take apart and drill mounting holes and drill and wire for a Cole Hersee toggle switch. 


On both side of the boat are two deckhead lights that take a LED filament bulb that is a very warm lightand as good as any regular bulb but only draw 0.5 amp.


Side of cockpit as you enter the storage and equipment area.


Same type of guarded vapour proof light on forward side of sail locker bulkhead. In these exposed areas I used asphaltic loom and copper straps for a traditional look that is also durable. More on wiring later.


Finally got to making the ice box insert. Made from 3mm marine ply stitch and glue epoxy construction and filled with 4" of blue styrofoam. Glassed over with cloth and epoxy and painted. Very light to lift.


The handle is a piece of tubular webbing held with finish washers and screws. I put a 12mm ply backing plate under the 3mm plywood for the screws to have something to go into before putting on the lid and glassing over.


The insert has a hollow gasket that sits on the teak flange. Seems like a lot of photos for such a simple thing but it did in fact take some time to make!




PropaneSystem


The two 17lbs propane bottles are stored in the lazarette locker with direct drain overboard through the transom. The system has a single stage regulator so you know when one bottle is empty and thus have to manually change bottles and hopefully filling the empty one. There is a manual shutoff valve and the supply line passes through a bulkhead seal and travels through conduit to the stove.

 

The manual shut off passes under the cockpit and is operated next to the galley.




Shaped some 3/32nd bronze plate into a handle and fit to some 3/8" bronze rod and soldered it together.
Required some careful filing to get a nice slip joint.



Borrowed my friends metal lathe to make a coupling to join the 3/8" rod to the valve key. Also necessary to take apart and pass through the bulkhead.


Here is the rod passing under the cockpit through some oak bearing blocks. The hose barb you can see coming through the cockpit floor will be for the diesel tank that will sit under the lazarette.

Rudder Part I

The rudder work has been spread out as I have to multitask a lot to keep things moving in other areas of the build. First I glued up the rudder blank and made the casting patterns and put it aside as I waited for the castings to be done. The rudder is made from Sapelli, silicon bronze and Black Locust cheek plates and tiller.


Laying out the boards and the template


Drilling the drift holes on the drill press. Could not drill quite through the planks so...


Finished off the holes by hand. Then I would clamp this board to the next one and using the first board as a drilling guide drill into the second board enough to mark it. Then take that to the drill press and start again.


Gluing surfaces prepared with a scratch stock 


Gluing and driving drifts.


Rudder glued up with G2 epoxy. The saw horses are leveled and two clamping cauls made sure the rudder was glued up flat.


Sunny day for the hard work of shaping. First power plan, then hand tools.


Shaping the aperture. A lot of water passes over the aperture so needs some attention.


Mostly shaped. Some final faring and edges left.


Castings ground and now back from the machinist who bored the gungeon holes and made bushings. He also used an offset boring bar on the milling machine to true up the pintles. Because I cast the pintles horizontally there is no draft angles to fuss about when fitting them to the rudder.


Fitting the pintles. The straps are let in half depth. I won't bolt them yet...they all have to line up.


Rudder shaped and pintles fit. Next hanging the rudder and tiller and cheek plates.

Thursday, September 15, 2016

Lyle Hess 34ft Falmouth Cutter ASTRID For Sale

This is a quiet announcement that Falmouth Cutter ASTRID will be for Sale. She is nearing completion in the workshop and is absolutely pristine. A rare opportunity to own a new and very special custom boat built to the highest standards in material and workmanship.

ASTRID is a boat for a person who appreciates Lyle Hess's very capable and seaworthy traditional designs executed with the finest workmanship and detail. The 34ft Falmouth Cutter was the last of a line of cutters designed by Lyle Hess. He counted this design as one of his best and made a number of refinements to the lines.  ASTRID has been built as a cruising boat for a couple who appreciates simplicity and beauty in life and sailing. She has a very comfortable and roomy interior and is built to accommodate taller people with 6ft 7in headroom at the centre line and longer and higher bunks and counters. She has the interior room of most 40 footers. Throughout the build the emphasis was on quality of materials, strength, function, longevity, understated elegance and fine workmanship. She was built without compromise.

ASTRID has been built from a bare fiberglass hull from Channel Cutter Yachts. The decks and cabins have been built using cold-molded building techniques which combine traditional aesthetics with a watertight and strong construction.

She will be available without spars and rigging or can be ordered with the very best Sikta Spruce spars and all bronze hardware.

Full specifications,  photos and video will be available in the coming months.

Please only serious inquiries can be directed to FC34ASTRID@gmail.com

$500,000 USD completed without rig.

With Sika Spruce spars, bronze rigging and working sails  price depending on specifications.








Sunday, July 17, 2016

July Update

Since the last update I have been working on finishing up a lot of various jobs on the boat. One of the jobs staring me in the face all this while was the cabin roof painting so finally got around to gluing and filleting on the pads for the secondary winches so I could begin painting. 


Here the margins are masked off and ready for painting with Epifanes Mono-Urethane paint.


Here are the margins painted with thee coats


Next the margins were masked and the coats of non-skid were applied. The first two layers were rolled and the Awlgrip Grip-Tex Coarse was sprinkled on. The third coat was rolled with no Grip-Tex. Was worried about the non-skid looking patchy but turned out great.




Masking for painting the inside cabin sides. Another long procrastinated job done. Three coats of Interlux Brightside over two coats of prime-coat.




Next came a whole lot of interior jobs to finish. The flip up counter between the galley and ice box got it's brass slide catches installed. There is a piece of closed cell foam glued to the underside proud of the catches so if it swings down accidentally it will bounce and not damage the galley




The gravity catch made from some maple that holds the lid behind the stove up. Same as the ice box and credit goes directly to the Pardey's and Taleisin for another great idea that is simple and effective.



The tip out garbage bin under the sink. A spliced cord retains it and can be unclipped to gain access to the galley sink sea cock and some storage.



Finally the wet locker was finished! Closed cell foam contact cemented to the hull and epoxy 'glassed over and filleted to the applied 6mm plywood sides to form a bit of a bathtub. A rod and two hooks to hang hats and wet weather kit.



The solution for the skylight lifters was inspired from a Walsted yacht I worked on a while ago. There are two different lengths and each flops down and is retained by a small 1/4" bronze stud which was made from a bolt cut off. The threaded portion of the bolt is epoxied into the wood and the smooth shoulder is left proud about 3/8" and recesses into a pocket routed into the lifter. The lifter itself swings on a 1/4" round head machine screw that is screwed into a threaded insert.




Gluing up the staving for the front of the head. The pieces are splined together with mahogany.


Finally finished the long neglected forward cabin. Very content with the ergonomics and function.


Spliced retainer cords for flip down lids.


All lockers finished in yellow cedar hull ceiling and slat shelves. 



Hanging locker with wire chase and chain plate bolts and backing plates


Getting the cabin sole fastened down again using Lin and Larry Pardey's method used on Taleisin.
One fore and aft row can be lifted from above with turn buttons. The rest are retained underneath by a barrel bolt and a brass tab that goes into a slot. Simply reach under the adjacent board, slide open the barrel bolt and lift out the board. I used chromed plated brass barrel bolts here, the only non-brass finished hardware on the boat. It was a matter of pragmatism. I needed a lot and they were affordable and won't be seen anyways.


  Drilling jig for the barrel bolt.


Non-skid cleats on the exposed teak hull by the galley and in the back storage area. Epoxied down and held in place with #6 bronze oval head screws


The mast step is notched over four solid fiberglass floors but to keep it from moving athwartships these two bronze brackets were cast and bolted to the floors and the mast step in turn bolted to the brackets. Two bolts per bracket.


The water tank installed. It is retained athwartships by the cabin sole beam knees and sitting 1/2" above the ballast. Self adhesive neoprene gasket material attached to the beams squeezes down onto the tank from above. The galley bulkhead stops it aft and an angelique beam bolted athwartships stops it moving forward. It is not going anywhere but all can be unbolted and removed relatively quickly. The fwd brass table post is sitting on a 1" thick teak platform bolted to the sole beams. The aft brass post sits directly on a beam. Stainless steel mounts were made to retain the posts. The posts are drilled for a Pardey style salon table yet to be made.


The aft brass post houses the wires for the two overhead lights and the power cables for the solar panel outlet on the roof directly above. The solar panel will be on a cord that can be plugged into a Hella Marine outlet or removed as necessary. The wires (14AWG for the lights and 12AWG for the solar panel, colour coded to ABYC standards) come into a PVC junction box and head aft in flexible conduit. The light wires you can see will head starboard into the settee and join up with the rest of the lighting wiring. The solar cable heads aft on the port side. The PVC pipe conduit on the stb side is empty now with a string to pull through future mast cables.


Looking down at the plumbing in progress. The two valves for the two water tanks are stainless and most forward. Second tank is not installed yet and have to get it made. Aft comes the galley salt water intake seacock and then the engine cooling intake seacock. The galley sink drains into the seacock directly below in the cabinet (there are only three seacocks for the boat). The 30GPM Edson bronze bilge pump comes next. All valves and the bilge pump can be accessed by lifting two sole boards.




Some of the hardware on the bench waiting for installation. Starting work on the rudder right now and that will probably be the next post.